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I arrived at
France's second largest city and the capital of the province of
Rhone-Alpes, to attend the International Destination Expo(IDE) and
was greeted by some very wet weather. In fact it poured most of
the day and after checking in at the Hotel Mercure Lyon
Charpennes, I headed to register myself at the Cite Centre de
Congres (CCC) what is also known as the Palais de Congres to
complete my registration formalities for the ASTA IDE which would
officially commence on Friday, 12th April 2008.
After a very smooth flight on Austrian Airlines which undoubtedly
has the best connections to all of Europe, I arrived at the
Aeroport Lyon Saint Exupery which is named after the famous
Lyonnais, Antoine de Saint-Exupery, a French writer and an
aviator. On arrival, I bought a ticket at the Satobus desk. At
9,50 Euros you get a one way shuttle bus from the airport which
takes you to the city centre. Additionally, I also bought a subway
(le metro) ticket which would take me from Part-Dieu which is a
central terminal and often the first contact area for visitors who
get into the city by train. A single ticket valid for one hour on
any public transport costs 1,60 Euros. When in Lyon, you can also
purchase a one day Liberte Card for 4,40 Euros which gives you 24
hour access on the trams, buses as well as the subway. |
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Being a SKAL member has its advantages
and M Stephane Robillard, Directeur of the Hotel Mercure Lyon
Charpennes was courteous enough to help a Skalleague with a room
at a very short notice. The hotel is a 3 star property and belongs
to the Hotels de Chaine et de Charme which comprises of a chain of
hotels which has 3 hotels in Rhone-Alpes including two in Lyon as
well as hotel properties in Normandie, Provence-Cote D'Azur, Paris
as well as Luxembourg. The hotel is very centrally located and is
close to the Charpennes station and the Charles Hernu tramway. A
very convenient place to stay; that too at a close proximity to
the public transport systems.
After check-in, I took the bus to the Cite Centre de Congres or
CCC , about 20 minutes from the Charpennes area. The CCC is a very
impressive complex situated in an exceptionally natural
environment between the Tete d'Or Park and the Rhone river and is
easily accessible by bus from the centrally located Part-Dieu TGV
Station .
Lyon known as the gastronomic capital of France is a city located
in Central East of France in the region of Rhone Alpes and can be
reached from Paris, the capital in just 2 hours on the TGV and
there are hourly trains to/from Lyon to the capital.Lyon, with a population of over 1.5 million people is a UNESCO
World Heritage City full of surprises and great contrasts with a
blend of Roman and medieval history, classic and contemporary
located at the confluence of the two- rivers, the Rhone and the Saone. You can walk thru 2000 years of history and the Old Town
and its quarters are part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Lyon
happens to be the birth place of the inventors of cinema and a
visit to the Museum of Cinema is a must to discover the
extraordinary inventions of the Lumiere Brothers. The Lumiere
Brothers had invented cinematography and it is in 1895 that they
had shot the first film in the history of cinema. |
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The Lumiere Quarter and the Lumiere
Museum will take you back in time to admire the fine work, be it
cinema, paintings or photography. You can visit the screening room
which has a collection of over 80 Lumiere films, the first "set"
in the history of cinematography and the photorama which was
invented by Louis Lumiere in 1901 to allow the public to admire
photos projected at 360degree and at a height of 6 metres. The
fascinating museum is spread over 4 floors and 21 rooms and is
worth a visit for lovers of art and cinema.
Lyon is a city of several icons from being the silk capital of
world and a centre of fashion to the Roman remains taking you back
to the Renaissance period and the famous "traboules" which connect
you thru ancient streets with courtyards, cornices and alleyways
to the Cathedral which was built in the 15th and the 16th Century.
The traboules are covered passage-ways that create a real
network of secret ways from one street to the next and which give
Lyon all its air of mystery. It is amazing to see how different
buildings are connected to each other thru vaulted corridors and
inner courtyards.
Then you also have the fascinating murals which adorn the city and
the Halles of Lyon where you would find the famous culinary
delights. Old Lyon is immersed in history as it has one of the
biggest areas of Renaissance architecture in Europe. The Hill of
the Croix Rousse on the other hand is the home of the "canuts" -
the silk workers which go back to the times of the Jacquard
weaving machines, the historic 4 star hotel of La Cour des Loges
which is a blend of history, comfort and luxury which once upon a
time was a Jesuit College.
T he four buildings that make up La Cour des Loges, were originally
built for merchants, bankers and printers during the Renaissance
period of the 15th and 16th Century. The main walls of No 2 and 4
Rue du Boeuf (Cattle Street) go back to 1341 and No 6 originally
was built for a spice merchant in the 15th Century. The Lord of
Burgundy, at the beginning of 16th Century, resold No 2, 4 and 6
to the Jesuits who opened a college in what is today, the annex of
the 5th district of the Town Hall and transformed No 2,4,6 Rue du
Boeuf into the college annex. After the French Revolution all the
Church properties were confiscated and the houses were auctioned
and rented as home and ground floor shops. The old section of Lyon
of what eventually became Cour des Loges, in the mid-70s,
deteriorated and from 1981 onwards, it took 5 years to restore it
and today it is one of the most historic places in Lyon. Today,
this property is a link between the present and the past, a subtle
blend of old and new with the four magnificent buildings dating
back to the 14th, 16th and 17th centuries restored to perfection.
La Cour des Loges is the first choice of accommodation amongst the
who's who, whether they are VVIPs or even those from Hollywood and
during the site visit of the hotel, we happen to pass by a
terrace- facing suite where Clint Eastwood, the famous western
hero, had stayed. A room would cost anything between 247 to 485
Euros per night whereas a suite would cost between 525 and 618
Euros. No wonder the Cour des Loges is known as the jewel of Old
Lyon. It is the combination of centuries and marriages of styles -
a subtle harmony between the Renaissance spirit and the
contemporary creativity that makes this place so special. |
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Other famous icons of Lyon include the
Guignol- a character which was developed in a French puppet show
way back in 1808. A visit to La Maison de Guignol is a must to
witness a spectacular show where Guignol amuses both children and
adults with his wit and humour. Incidentally the year 2008 is when
Lyon celebrates 200 years of the Guignol.
Yet another fascinating aspect of Lyon are the mural frescoes and
you will find over 100 of them across the various districts of the
city. Some of the murals, also known as trompe l'oeil in French
are more than mere art. It is a technique involving extremely
realistic imagery in order to create an optical illusion where the
objects appear three-dimensional instead of a two-dimensional
painting. One such sidewall of building comprising of famous
people of Lyon extends up to 7 floors and if you do not observe
closely, you may actually feel that there are real people standing
in the balcony that overlook the street. In reality the people and
the balconies too are nothing but trompe l'oeil or optical
illusion created thru art. It was indeed fascinating to know how
the mural frescoes evolved. In the beginning of the eighties,
young artists formed a group in order to give more life and colour
to the walls. They created two associations: "cite de la Creation"
and "Mur'art", found sponsors, obtained the agreement of local
authorities, and started to work. You can obtain a list of the
decorated walls, which will enable you to go and discover this
universe by yourself. There are more than 45 walls which are
painted in the city of Lyon, each one having its own significance.
The stand out fresco undoubtedly was La Murs des Canuts where you
have these steps painted and passer-bys in the area get conned and
try to climb the steps not realizing that it is just another of
the many optical illusions in the city. Simply amazing !!!
Another interesting icon of Lyon are the Bouchons A bouchon is a
typical restaurant which serves Lyonnaise cuisine. They are family
run establishments serving locally bake dishes such as duck pate,
mushrooms, pork or sausages. The menus are fixed prices and serve
locally based dishes in an environment which has hardly changed.
In a bouchon you get the feel that you are seated in a restaurant
in the mid-18th Century or of an earlier era and you start your
meal with an aperitif such as a kir which is a wine with
blackcurrant liqueur, followed by the various courses of meals.
There are nearly 20 certified bouchons in Lyon and a meal in one
of the bouchon is a must to get the flavour of the local
gastronomy in an ambience that truly represents the days of the
silk weavers visiting the small inns during the 17th and 18th
Centuries. And it is indeed quite interesting to know the range of
cuisine from bouchons to Michelin Star restaurants such as Bocuse,
the famous Paul Bocuse which serves award-winning cuisine. Lyon is
truly a gastronomic delight. |
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Any visit to Lyon is incomplete
without visiting the soul of Lyon, the hill of Fourviere from
where you get the most stunning view of the city be it day or
night. The Fourviere Sanctuary was built on the site of the
ancient Rome Forum of Lugdunum where the Virgin Mary was
worshipped for over 1000 years. And the Lyonnais have always
looked up on this amazing basilica to protect their city from war
and disease. Every year the city is worth visiting on 8th December
to see the festival of illumination or lights which is supposed to
be simply spectacular. In 1852, a statue of “Golden Virgin” was
installed here and the existing Basilica was built by the people
of Lyon to thank this holy place for protecting the people during
the war of 1870. Every year there are religious pilgrims who visit
the Basilica seeking protection from Virgin Mary and there are
special celebrations held on August 15th, September 8th and
December 8th as thanksgiving and special services are held on
these days.
The Fourviere Basilica is the work of the architect Pierre Bossan
with a solid structure on the outside giving an appearance as if
it is a Fortress on a hill and fine work of mosaics, stained glass
and sculptures within the Basilica. The Basilica attracts millions
of visitors every year and is one of the busiest sanctuaries and
tourist attractions in entire France. I had the opportunity of
doing the Visite Insolite de Fourviere tour, which is a Mystery
tour which takes you to the roof of the Fourviere thru spiral
staircase to get a panaromic view not only of the Basilica but the
city of Lyon as well. This fascinating tour is a must for those
who wish to get the inside story of what went into building the
Basilica and on your way to the top you stop at various levels.
One gets to visit the grand gallery, the architects' studio, the
angels' gallery, the attic and the carillon of bells. The tour
lasts for 75 minutes and one can take this unusual tour every day
between June and September and on Wednesdays and Sundays in April,
May and October. |
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The Hill of the Croix Rousse offers
another dimension of Lyon as the Croix-Rousse is the home of the "canuts"- The origin of the word Canuts come from
"cannes nues"
which means bare sticks and symbolizes poverty. It is here that
you would find the silk workers in the days gone by and hear the
sound of the Jacquard weaving machines.Lyon can also be seen from the banks of its rivers and one can
enjoy cruises from the banks of the Rhone as well as the Saone
rivers. The Saone crosses the historic heart of the city to reveal
the most unexpected neighbourhoods along its banks whereas the
Rhone has over 5 kilometres of walkways where you can just take a
leisurely stroll and you find en route lawns, cafes, deckchairs,
pools, barges, concerts and restaurants and for fitness freaks you
have a cycling track, a roller park and fitness circuits as well.
A 90 minutes tour to see Lyon from the water is a must for any
visitor to Lyon to enjoy the sights of Lyon on a shallow tourist
boat which takes you across from the Rhone and drift along the
Saone and admire the beauty of the city and see the magical and
mythical confluence of the two rivers.
Another fascinating experience is the Lyon by Night tour as more
than 300 sights are illuminated and the city changes completely at
nightfall with the combination of public lightings. The view from
the top of the Fourviere Hill of the entire city illuminated is
simply spectacular.
Last but not the least, Lyon is famous for its fine gastronomy and
is home to the undisputed master of French cuisine, Paul Bocuse
who has been honoured as the “chef of the century” in the Michelin
Guide. You find several gourmet shops here and a fine array of
restaurants where young chefs display their talent of creative
cuisine not just in appearance but in taste as well. A visit to
Bernachon, the house of chocolates run by the third generation of
the Bernachon family where they believe chocolate is not a sweet
or a treat but a real dish is a must. You are guaranteed to put on
a few calories during your stay in Lyon. Luckily enough, you have
several walking tours that you can take here to see this wonderful
city, be it the parks, the art district, the markets, the Old Town
and its traboules and you can simply stroll away all the calories.
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Our welcome dinner at the ASTA IDE
hosted by the Rhone-Alpes Tourism gave us the flavour of what we
would expect during our stay in Lyon. Starting with mini black and
white quenelles - a combination of plain semolina and rich eggs,
fresh butter and pike from La Maison Giraduet, followed by Bresse
chicken from Bourg-en-Bresse, the finest chicken in the region
which was cooked in cream and mushrooms and served with rice.
Sainte Marcellin cheese, a creamy delicate cheese from
The village of Vercors from Fromagerie de l'Etoile and the
reputation of this cheese is not national but truly global and to
top it with Praline tart made by Maison Seve, the house of famous
chocolatier patissier, Richard Seve. All these exquisite culinary
delights were served along with fine vintage wines from the crown
of the Beaujolais wine production such as Brouilly, Chenas and
Morgon as well as the Beaujolais Villages, one of the largest
productions in the Beaujolais region. The following evening, we
were hosted for a Gala Dinner courtesy City of Lyon in partnership
with Maison de la France and Savoie Mont Blanc Tourisme at the
Hotel de Ville or the Town Hall.
The Final Gala Dinner was courtesy of South African Tourism, South
African Airways and Sun International and we saw some fine
extravaganza on display by world class artists and theatrical
troupe, African Footprints, who presented an explosive stampede of
song and dance. The ASTA delegates had the opportunity to get to
know from the CEO of South African Tourism Mr. Moeketsi Mosola
what was in store at the next IDE to be hosted in 2009 at Sun
City, South Africa. The evening started with a parade of models in
traditional Zulu hats greeting attendees on arrival and forming a
statuesque along the lobby which lead into the dining room. The
theme of the evening was "Strike Gold in South Africa" as South
Africa is a place which presents a gold mine of packaging options
with its world class tourism products, increase in tourist
arrivals and also host to the 2010 FIFA World Cup as highlighted
by Mr. Mosola. The star attraction of the evening was the presence
of Danny Glover, the dean of African American Character Actors,
five times Emmy award nominee and best known for his role as Los
Angeles police detective in the famous Hollywood movie Lethal
Weapon. Glover spoke about his long association with South Africa
dating back to the 1970s and the bonding he has established with
the people and the destination as well. Danny Glover besides
addressing the delegates interacted with most of them bringing one
of the finest IDEs hosted by ASTA to a memorable close.
Besides, learning about new destinations, the IDE was an excellent
opportunity to discover the treasures of a wonderful city and
before heading home, I had one more day left to explore the wine
region of Beaujolais. |
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SOME OF THE HIDDEN TREASURES OF LYON
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Passage Thiaffait or Creators Village is a passageway that houses
textile, fashion, leather goods and jewellery workshops as well as
boutiques.
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For late night dining, fashionable pubs and Lyon style bistros
OR bouchons, a visit to Rue Merciere is a must.
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The three squares Jacobins, Bellecour and Celestins near the
Bellecour area is home to over 70 luxury labels, world-famous
brands and fashionable boutiques.
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The arts and crafts market on the banks of the Saone is worth a
visit every Sunday morning. You will find these markets on Quai de
Bondy and Quai Romain Rolland.
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The Lyon Auditorium located in the Part-Dieu district is one of
the biggest concert halls in Europe and is the home of the Lyon
National Orchestra.
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You can experience a tasting session of sea food with a glass of
wine at the Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse or the covered markets on
the weekends except Sunday afternoon.
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The Maison de la Danse located in the Monplaisir district is the
only theatre in Europe entirely devoted to dancing and also hosts
the biennial Dance Festival.
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The biggest secondhand flea market in the Rhone-Alpes area can
be found in the Canal flea market in the Villeurbanne area of the
city.
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Lyon is home to several museums including the Museum of Fine
Arts, the Museum of Fabrics and Museum of Decorative Arts, The Gadagne
Museum as well as the Museum of Modern Art. Look out for
Beaujolais in our forthcoming issue.......
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