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Germany is a land
of many gems and Saxony is undoubtedly the hidden treasure of
Germany. I was convinced about the same after having attended a
presentation by Shireesh Sharma , Marketing Consultant for Saxony
Tourism for the Americas. In fact, I would add that no other
Indian knows Saxony better than Shireesh and this was further
reiterated when I attended his presentation earlier this year at
the ASTA IDE in Lyon. Last September, I had the opportunity to
visit Germany's No 1 Cultural Destination and on arrival at Berlin
airport we were greeted by our host Wolfgang Gärtner- Head of
International Marketing, Tourism Marketing Company of Saxony and
we boarded our coach to head to the South East corner and the
capital of Saxony, Dresden. Dresden is located to the south of
Berlin and it takes under 2 hours to cover the distance of 165
kilometres on the Autobahn between the two cities. You can even
fly to Dresden on Austrian via Vienna as they offer convenient
connections to the capital city of Saxony Saxony, the art and
cultural capital of Germany is on the South East corner of Germany
and borders the Czech Republic and Poland. We were to spend 4 days
to get a flavour of this wonderful area of Germany comprising of 7
regions. |
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Our first halt en route was at Pillnitz Castle Gardens. Pillnitz
used to be the summer residence of the Saxon Kings near Dresden.
The park and the castle were built here at the end of the 18th
Century. This used to be the summer residence of the Saxon Kings
and the Riverside Palace was linked to the New Palace and the
Hillside Palace to form a unique ensemble of architecture. The
English and Chinese pavilions were added later. We had the
opportunity to take a short stroll for about 15 minutes to get an
impression of this wonderful area which has been part of the
Dresden Elbe Valley UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2004. Before
Dresden became a centre of research, industry and tourism, it was
the seat of the royal residence and being royalties they had
castles. Pillnitz was built in a Japanese style and was the
closest castle to Dresden with the exception of the city castle.
The city castle used to be the winter residence of the royalties.
Originally there was a Renaissance Castle in Pillnitz and later
the castle was in the possession of Countess Cosel, the most
famous mistress of Augustus the Strong. She started redoing the
castle in Baroque style with the help of famous architect Matthäus
Daniel Pöpellmann who was also responsible for rebuilding Dresden
after the fire of 1685. He also built a water pavilion from where
you can take gondolas and go along the Elbe River. He also built
the Hill Palace which was later connected to the Castle. The
architecture here is chinoiserie or Chinese style, probably due to
the influence of Marco Polo who around the same time had
discovered China and you can see the Chinese impressions in the
architecture at Pillnitz. The site consists of an English garden
which is used for concerts and cultural events today, as well as a
Chinese Garden, a Chinese pavilion and an Orangerie. You can
arrive at the Pillnitz gardens and Castle in one of the Elbe
Steamboats as well. |
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After a quick lunch at the restaurant
within the garden premises, we took a steam boat ride to the
capital of Saxony also known as the Florence on the Elbe Dresden.
Dresden was one of Europe's most beautiful cities until 1945 when
the Allied bombers turned this city into a pile of rubble. The
city which celebrated its 800th anniversary in 2006 is probably
much older city as the first settlers who came to Dresden came
from the East of Europe from Russia, Poland, Czech and settled on
the banks of the river Elbe and they used to speak Slavic
language. The name Dresden is derived from the old Serbian word
Drježdžany which the Slavic settlers here used to speak. This word
stood for “inhabitants on a swampy ground” and over the years this
place grew from its obscurity to what it is today, probably the
richest in Germany in terms of art, culture, history,
architecture, music, shopping, gold, wine and fine gastronomy.
Today the city has 510000 inhabitants in an area of 18413
sq.kilometres |
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The most inspiring Saxon was Augustus
the Strong and you can find his statue as you arrive into Dresden
from the Elbe river. After World War II, Dresden was completely
destroyed and this was followed by Communist rule before being
reunited with Germany.
We took a brief historic walking tour of this beautiful city
comprising of many historical monuments such as the reconstructed
Frauenkirche or the Church of our Lady which is the largest
Protestant Church in Germany. The Frauenkirche which miraculously
survived the bombings and subsequent fires thereafter, suddenly
collapsed a few days later as the building's sandstone had started
to cool down. It was rebuilt as a symbol of reconciliation between
former enemies of war. This Lutheran Church, which was built
between 1726 and 1743 took 13 years to rebuild and was eventually
completed in 2005. It is undoubtedly one of the most famous icons
of Dresden. The Church used to also host several musical concerts
as it was famous for its acoustics. Richard Wagner did a
presentation with 1100 singers here. The cost to rebuild the
church was $200 million and most money came by donation and most
of the work was voluntary. |
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As you walk near the theatre square,
you see the imposing Semperoper or the Semper Opera House, a later
Baroque building in Germany and one of the world's best opera
house where our Zubin Mehta has also performed on several
occasions.
The Dresden Zwinger is yet another famous landmark comprising of
pavilions and galleries in baroque style and was commissioned by
Augustus the Strong, the elector of Saxony. Zwinger which means
interspace originates from its location between former city
fortifications. The most impressive pavilions are the Rampart and
Glockenspiel. The Zwinger with its large inner courtyard was used
for court festivities, tournaments and fireworks and today, houses
several museums such as the Porcelain Museum, the Old Master's
Gallery and the Historical Museum. One of the highlights of the
Zwinger is the Crown Gate, a baroque gate topped by a large crown
and the Nymphenbad, a small enclosed courtyard near the Rampart
pavilion which has a baroque fountain featuring numerous statues.
Another interesting area of the city centre is Neumarkt. Neumarkt
which stands for New Market is misunderstood as a market place.
Here in Germany, it is the name of the square and is a culturally
significant section of the inner city of Dresden. The Neumarkt
like most of Dresden was destroyed during WW II and was rebuilt to
its original pre-war look. |
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Amongst the other Baroque masterpieces
in Dresden are the Taschenberg Palace and the Dresden Cathedral.
Later in the day we had the opportunity to visit the
Green Vault-
Europe's most important treasury museum. The original “Green
Vault” too was destroyed during WWII and later rebuilt by Augustus
the Strong and here you can find the most important pieces of art
including the “Court of Aurangzeb”- a masterpiece of the
Dinglinger family of Jewellers. This amazing work took as long as
7 years to build; and costs as much as the famous Moritzburg
Castle of Saxony. Dresden is a city for lovers of art and is home
to several museums. With a standard ticket costing 12 Euros, you
can have access to as many as 11 different museums on a single day
which include the Green Vault(extra charges for Historic Green
Vault), Numismatic Collection, Porcelain Collection, Armoury
Museum, Museum of Arts and Crafts, Sculpture Collection, to name a
few.
After getting a preview of what was in store for us during our
stay, we checked in at the Steigenberger Park Hotel in Radebeul,
situated on the foot of the Loessnitz vineyards, seven kilometers
away from the city of Dresden. Radebeul is an ideal locations for
trips to Moritzburg Castle, the porcelain city of Meissen and
Saxon Switzerland, one of the most unique landscapes in Germany.
It is also on the Saxon Wine Route which runs from Pirna, located
to the south of Dresden upto Diessbar-Seusslitz, a village to the
north of Meissen. Nearby we had the opportunity to visit one of
the most amazing vineyards of Saxony the Schloss Wackerbarth or
the Wackerbarth Castle. |
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The Wackerbarth Castle, nestled in the
town of Radebeul houses Saxony's oldest sparkling wine(Sekt)
producing facility. It is Europe's first vineyard to allow guests
to discover and experience the world of wine first-hand. We
arrived at Wackerbath Castle late in the evening where the
Mediterranean style palace stood out at twilight and we could
smell the fruitiness of the Riesling grown in the area. We were
taken for a guided tour of the state-owned winery and got to
experience a bouquet of wines from black currant to exotic peach
aromas before being treated to some fine gourmet meals prepared by
their head chef providing the perfect culmination to our visit to
the Wackerbath Castle which has attracted connoisseurs and lovers
of the Mediterranean way of life since the 18th Century. The
special menu exclusively prepared for us comprised of gratinated
goat's cheese from Altenburg in a filo dough on fig curry jam and
reduced grape's vinegar accompanied by 2006 Riesling Qba semi-dry.
This was followed by the main course comprising of breast of
Moritzburger pheasant a la vinter on pineapple cabbage and herbal
couscous accompanied by a 2006 Frühburgunder Qba dry and concluded
by a dessert comprising of Borthner apple soup with iced sour
cream accompanied with a 2003 Weißburgunder Auslese. The sumptuous
meal accompanied by the finest wines convinced me that Saxony is
undoubtedly the gastronomic capital of Germany. |
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Those who love Indian food needn't
despair for there is Kamasutra! Don't get me wrong as Kamasutra is
one amongst several Indian restaurants that you can find in
Dresden which serve Indian cuisine and claims to be the first in
continental Europe to offer authentic Indian food. There is also
Maharadscha, another Indian restaurant, which claims to be the
first Indian restaurant in Dresden. So I wonder who was first, but
the important thing is that there are several Indian restaurants
in Dresden amongst cuisines from across the world.
There were lots of exciting places in store for us to visit in
Saxony. The following day started with a visit to Saxon
Switzerland. |
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